The climbing scale converter

Integrating the converter into your website

Copy convertClimbingScale.js in the same directory as the one holding your html file.
Insert <script src="convertClimbingScale.js"></script> in the <head> section of your html file. If you decide to put the .js file in another folder, make sure the correct directory is indicated.
Paste the entire content of the <body> section into your html file. It is up to you to decide where on your page the converter will be displayed.
If you would like for the input box to receive focus automatically after the page load, include the onload="focusOnInput()" option in your <body> tag.

Here are two videos in English and French on how to aplly the above instructions.

Integrating the converter into your blog

Embed the following code
<script> /* Climbing scale converter Author: Charalampos KARYPIDIS v1.0 - 20140105 ch.karypidis@gmail.com http://addictiveknowledge.blogspot.com/ */ //////////////////// Normalizing case. For instance, if the user types "7A" and chooses "Fontainebleau", this function will convert the input to lowercase before querying the database. The user will still read "7A", only the query is affected. function normalizeCase(string,scaleName) { lowerCaseList = ["Yosemite (YDS)","British Technical","French","Fontainebleau","Fontainebleau Traverse","British Technical Grade","Dankyu","Toyota"] upperCaseList = ["British adjectival","UIAA","Saxon","Hueco (V-Grade)","Peak Bouldering Grade"] var newString = "" if (upperCaseList.indexOf(scaleName) > -1) { newString = string.trim().toUpperCase(); } else if (lowerCaseList.indexOf(scaleName) > -1) { newString = string.trim().toLowerCase(); } else { newString = string } return newString } //////////////////// The database arrays containing grading correspondances. There is no equation that can convert directly so all possibilities had to be included. leadScale = [["Yosemite (YDS)","British Technical","British adjectival","French","UIAA","Saxon","Ewbank","Finnish","SWE/NOR","Brazilian"], ["3/4","1","M","1","I","I","1/2","1","1","I"], ["5","1","M","1","I","I","3/4","1","1","I sup"], ["5.1","2","M","2","II","II","5/6","2","2","II"], ["5.2","2","D","2","II","II","7/8","2","2","II sup"], ["5.3","3","D","3","III","III","9/10","3","3","II sup"], ["5.4","3","VD","4a","IV","IV","11/12","4","4","III"], ["5.5","4a","S","4b","IV+","V","13","5-","5-","III sup"], ["5.6","4b","HS","4c","V","VI","14","5","5","IV"], ["5.7","4c","VS","5a","V+","VI","15","5","5","IV"], ["5.8","4c","HVS","5b","VI-","VIIa","16","5+","5+","IV sup"], ["5.9","5a","HVS","5c","VI","VIIb","17","5+","6-","V"], ["5.10a","5a","E1","6a","VI+","VIIc","18","6-","6-","VI"], ["5.10b","5b","E1","6a+","VII-","VIIc","19","6-","6","VI"], ["5.10c","5b","E2","6b","VII","VIIIa","20","6","6+","VI sup"], ["5.10d","5c","E2","6b+","VII+","VIIIb","21","6","7-","VI sup"], ["5.11a","5c","E3","6c","VII+","VIIIc","22","6+","7","7a"], ["5.11b","5c","E3","6c+","VIII-","VIIIc","23","6+","7","7b"], ["5.11c","6a","E4","6c+","VIII-","IXa","24","7-","7+","7c"], ["5.11d","6a","E4","7a","VIII","IXb","24","7","7+","7c"], ["5.12a","6a","E5","7a+","VIII+","IXc","25","7+","8-","8a"], ["5.12b","6a","E5","7b","VIII+","IXc","26","8-","8-","8b"], ["5.12c","6b","E6","7b+","IX-","Xa","27","8","8","8c"], ["5.12d","6b","E6","7c","IX","Xb","28","8+","8","9a"], ["5.13a","6b","E7","7c+","IX+","Xc","29","9-","8+","9b"], ["5.13b","6c","E7","8a","IX+","Xc","29","9","9-","9c"], ["5.13c","6c","E8","8a+","X-","XIa","30","9+","9-","10a"], ["5.13d","6c","E9","8b","X","XIb","31","10-","9","10b"], ["5.14a","7a","E10","8b+","X+","XIc","32","10","9","10c"], ["5.14b","7a","E10","8c","X+","XIc","33","10+","9+","11a"], ["5.14c","7b","E11","8c+","XI-","XIc","34","11-","9+","11b"], ["5.14d","7b","E11","9a","XI","XIc","35","11","9+","11c"], ["5.15a","7b","E11","9a+","XI+","XIc","36","11","9+","12a"], ["5.15b","7b","E11","9b","XI+/XII-","XIc","37","11","9+","12b"], ["5.15c","7b","E11","9b+","XII-","XIc","38","11","9+","12c"]] boulderingScale = [["Hueco (V-Grade)","Fontainebleau","Fontainebleau Traverse","Peak Bouldering Grade","British Technical Grade","Japanese Dankyu","Japanese Toyota"], ["V0-","3",,"B0","5a","7-kyu","a"], ["V0","4",,"B1","5a/5b","7-kyu","a"], ["V0+","4+",,"B1 - B2","5a/5b","6-kyu","b"], ["V1","5",,"B2","5b/5c","5-kyu","b"], ["V2","6a",,"B3","5c/6a","4-kyu","c"], ["V3","6a+","7a","B4","6a- 6b","3-kyu","c"], ["V4","6b/6c","7a+","B5","6a/6b","2-kyu","d"], ["V5","6c+","7b","B5 - B6","6b","1-kyu","d"], ["V6","7a","7b+","B6 - B7","6b/6c","1-kyu","d"], ["V7","7a+/7b","7c","B7 - B8","6b/6c","1-dan","e"], ["V8","7b/7b+","7c+","B8","6c","1-dan","e"], ["V8","7b+","8a","B9","6c/7a","2-dan","f"], ["V9","7c","8a+","B10","6c/7a","2-dan","f"], ["V10","7c+","8b","B11","7a","3-dan","g"], ["V11","8a","8b+","B11 - B12","7a/7b","3-dan","g"], ["V12","8a+","8c","B12","7a/7b","4-dan","g"], ["V13","8b","8c+","B13","7b","4-dan","g"], ["V14","8b+","9a","B14","7b","5-dan","g"], ["V15","8c","9a","B15","7b","5-dan","g"], ["V16","8c+","9a","B16","7b","6-dan","g"]] //////////////////// input box gets immediate focus upon page load function focusOnInput() { document.getElementById("inputBox").focus(); } //////////////////// Invert the scales selected function invertScales() { var inputSelected = document.getElementById("inputScales").value; var outputSelected = document.getElementById("outputScales").value; document.getElementById("inputScales").value = outputSelected; document.getElementById("outputScales").value = inputSelected; } //////////////////// disabling non-compatible options. When a lead climbing scale is selected, bouldering scale options are disabled and vice versa function disableOptions() { var inputIndexSelected = document.getElementById("inputScales").selectedIndex; document.getElementById("outputScales").value=""; var options = document.getElementById("outputScales").getElementsByTagName("option"); if (inputIndexSelected >=11) { for (var i = 0; i < options.length; i++) { if (leadScale[0].indexOf(options[i].value) > -1) { options[i].disabled = true } else { options[i].disabled = false } } } else if (inputIndexSelected <11) { for (var i = 0; i < options.length; i++) { if (boulderingScale[0].indexOf(options[i].value) > -1) { options[i].disabled = true } else { options[i].disabled = false } } } } //////////////////// the main function that yields the result function result() { document.getElementById("outputBox").value = ""; var scaleSelected = document.getElementById("inputScales").value; var scaleOutput = document.getElementById("outputScales").value; var inputValue = document.getElementById("inputBox").value; if (scaleSelected == 0 || scaleOutput == 0 || inputValue == 0) { } else if (boulderingScale[0].indexOf(scaleSelected) > -1) { var inputIndex = boulderingScale[0].indexOf(scaleSelected); var outputIndex = boulderingScale[0].indexOf(scaleOutput); correctedString = normalizeCase(inputValue,scaleSelected); var rowIndex = ""; for (var i = 1; i <boulderingScale.length; i++) { var gradingLevel = boulderingScale[i][inputIndex]; if (correctedString == gradingLevel) { rowIndex = i; } } if (rowIndex != "") { document.getElementById("outputBox").value = boulderingScale[rowIndex][outputIndex]; } else { document.getElementById("outputBox").value = ""; } } else if (leadScale[0].indexOf(scaleSelected) > -1) { var inputIndex = leadScale[0].indexOf(scaleSelected); var outputIndex = leadScale[0].indexOf(scaleOutput); correctedString = normalizeCase(inputValue,scaleSelected); var rowIndex = ""; for (var i = 1; i <leadScale.length; i++) { var gradingLevel = leadScale[i][inputIndex]; if (correctedString == gradingLevel) { rowIndex = i; } } if (rowIndex != "") { document.getElementById("outputBox").value = leadScale[rowIndex][outputIndex]; } else { document.getElementById("outputBox").value = ""; } } } </script> <table summary="" style="text-align:center"> <tr> <td> <select id="inputScales" onchange="disableOptions(),result()"> <option value="" /> <optgroup label="Lead climbing"> <option value="Yosemite (YDS)" />Yosemite (YDS) <option value="British Technical" />British Technical <option value="British adjectival" />British adjectival <option value="French" />French <option value="UIAA" />UIAA <option value="Saxon" />Saxon <option value="Ewbank" />Ewbank <option value="Finnish" />Finnish <option value="SWE/NOR" />SWE/NOR <option value="Brazilian" />Brazilian </optgroup> <optgroup label="Bouldering"> <option value="Hueco (V-Grade)" />Hueco (V-Grade) <option value="Fontainebleau" />Fontainebleau <option value="Fontainebleau Traverse" />Fontainebleau Traverse <option value="Peak Bouldering Grade" />Peak Bouldering Grade <option value="British Technical Grade" />British Technical Grade <option value="Japanese Dankyu" />Japanese Dankyu <option value="Japanese Toyota" />Japanese Toyota </optgroup> </select> </td> </tr> <tr> <td><input type="text" size="15" id="inputBox" onkeyup="result()" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="font-size:x-large"><abbr title="Convert to" onclick="result()">⬇</abbr><abbr title="Invert data" onclick="invertScales(),result()">⬍</abbr></td> </tr> <tr> <td><select id="outputScales" onchange="result()"> <option value="" /> <optgroup label="Lead climbing"> <option value="Yosemite (YDS)" />Yosemite (YDS) <option value="British Technical" />British Technical <option value="British adjectival" />British adjectival <option value="French" />French <option value="UIAA" />UIAA <option value="Saxon" />Saxon <option value="Ewbank" />Ewbank <option value="Finnish" />Finnish <option value="SWE/NOR" />SWE/NOR <option value="Brazilian" />Brazilian </optgroup> <optgroup label="Bouldering"> <option value="Hueco (V-Grade)" />Hueco (V-Grade) <option value="Fontainebleau" />Fontainebleau <option value="Fontainebleau Traverse" />Fontainebleau Traverse <option value="Peak Bouldering Grade" />Peak Bouldering Grade <option value="British Technical Grade" />British Technical Grade <option value="Japanese Dankyu" />Japanese Dankyu <option value="Japanese Toyota" />Japanese Toyota </optgroup> </select> </td> </tr> <tr> <td><input type="text" size="15" id="outputBox" /></td> </tr> </table> <p>By <a href="http://addictiveknowledge.blogspot.com/">addictive knowledge</a></p> anywhere in your blog (watch the video below.

Here are two videos in English and French on how to aplly the above instructions.

Notes

You can find the equivalence between scales in a Calc and in an Excel format, as well as in the Javascript code. If you do not agree with a particular equivalence, feel free to modify the Javascript code directly (see comments within the code).
Please do not omit the <p>By <a href="http://addictiveknowledge.blogspot.com/">addictive knowledge</a></p> snippet. This will allow people to get to know my work.
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Convert a climbing grade

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